A Cabernet Franc-led Pessac-Léognan from the celebrated 2016 vintage, now entering its stride: truffle and crushed stone over cassis, with the gravelly signature of the Graves.
Pessac-Léognan is the gravel belt on Bordeaux's southern edge, the oldest fine-wine ground in the region and the only part of Graves to carry its own appellation. Wines from here are recognisable: less plush than the Médoc, more savoury, with a smoky, stony quality the French call goût de terroir.
The 2016 Larrivet Haut-Brion is unusual in being led by Cabernet Franc rather than Cabernet Sauvignon, which lifts the aromatics. Critics found truffle, tilled earth and crushed rock over cassis and blackberry, with Provençal herbs underneath. 2016 was one of the great recent Bordeaux vintages, and this is a wine that rewards keeping — it will be on top form from 2027.
No. Despite the shared name, Château Larrivet Haut-Brion is a separate estate in Pessac-Léognan. Château Haut-Brion is a First Growth and a different property entirely.
Was 2016 a good Bordeaux vintage?
One of the best of the past twenty years. A dry summer followed by well-timed rain gave wines with ripe fruit and firm, fine tannins built for the long term.
Should I decant it?
Yes. An hour in a decanter opens up the earthier aromatics considerably at this stage of its life.
What does Pessac-Léognan taste like?
More savoury and smoky than the Médoc, with a stony, graphite edge from the gravel soils. Less about pure fruit, more about texture and earth.
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